Rheology as a predictive tool for the optimization of the formulation of a natural foundation in a O/W emulsion

We developed at Intercos S.p.A. a new O/W foundation starting from an existing one increasing the Natural Origin Index, obtaining the same cosmetic characteristics thanks to the selection of appropriate sustainable raw materials. The systematic use of rheology as the main characterization tool enabled the development of predictive structure/performance relationships, minimizing the recurrence of the time consuming trial and error approach. 1 Dealing with viscoelastic systems, it was possible to investigate the structure of samples with continuous and oscillatory rheology. 2 In this way, two different emulsions were obtained and proposed as an alternative with a higher NOI. In addition to oscillatory measurement to investigate the structures, other rheological measurements were performed (Flow Ramp and Creep Recovery). Also, Texture Analysis measurements were made.3 Those measurements made possible to select a single formula with similar cosmetic characteristics with respect to the starting foundation. Although the result was achieved, several obstacles were faced during the study. Natural raw materials are not as performing as synthetic ones. In the end, the characteristics of a formulation are not the sum of the ones of ingredients that composed that, so there was always unpredictable interaction emerging in the rheological measurements.